Determine the number of steel studs required. Generally, 1 stud should be allowed for every 12 inches (300 mm) of linear wall space. By measuring the linear feet of the wall and doubling it, buy steel plates (also called rails) for the bottom and top of the wall. Add an extra stud for each side of the window or door.
Use the chalk box to chalk on the line segments that will be fixed to the floor on the track. Draw a chalk line around the floor to outline where your track needs to go.
Screw the lower length track to the floor. Use the chalk line to locate the lower rail, then first drill a hole in the rail and the stud, then fix it with a screw, and then screw the rail in. If you want to drill holes in concrete, try using an electric nail gun or electric hammer drill to make it easier. [2]
Pass corners and long straight lines when laying the track. Overlap the corners of the rails by flattening the side flanges of the first rail so that the overlapping rails can slide into place correctly. On a longer straight line, overlap adjacent rails by at least 6 inches, and secure the overlap to the floor with concrete screws.
Probe the top track. To ensure that the upper and lower rails are vertical, you can use a laser level, plumb bob, or two water levels:
To use a laser level, just place it in the bottom middle of the track and turn it on to shine a vertical laser onto your wall. This point will be your plumb point on the upper wall. Most contractors recommend the use of laser levels to improve efficiency and facilitate access.
Using a plumb bob is similar to using a laser level. Tie the rope to the top of the wall and let Bob rest on the plumb line at the bottom of the floor.
If you have neither a laser level nor a plumb bob, you can try to press the two water levels together. Put the two floors together, extend one to the ceiling and the other to the floor, making sure that both floors are vertical. Mark your plump lines on the floor or ceiling.
After establishing the plumb line, connect the track to the upper ceiling. Use the drill bit and screw gun to connect the track, just like connecting the ground track.
If your track is perpendicular to the ceiling joist, use self-tapping drywall screws to fix the track to the joist.
If your track is parallel to the ceiling joist, use drywall anchors to fix the track to the joist, or use grab screws and glue to fix it.
To trim to the correct length, cut the flanges on both sides of the steel stud. For this purpose, straight-cut aviation shears are used. Bend a flange upward, avoiding the jaws of the shears, and then cut the web of the stud. [5]
To make it easier to install electrical and plumbing in the future, keep all the keyhole knockouts aligned by cutting all the studs from the same end to a certain length. Wear durable gloves to protect your hands.
To cut multiple pieces at a time, use a miter saw with a metal cutting blade.
First use a utility knife to make scratches on both sides of the stud, and then bend the stud back and forth until it separates, which makes it easier to cut the stud with aviation shears.
Clamp the two components tightly with C-shaped clamping pliers, and connect the stud to the rail. Screw in a 1/2-inch (1.2 cm) No. 8 pan head screw in the middle where they meet. This should be done at a moderate speed. [6]
Choose a clutch setting that is strong enough to return the screw to its original position, but not so strong that it will peel off the screw hole and weaken the joint.
The metal header is made by cutting a rail that is 2 inches (5 cm) longer than the width of the rough opening. Cut each flange (at both ends) of the rail 1 inch (2.5 cm) longitudinally. Use metal plate locking pliers to bend the web down 90 degrees. [7]
Fix the cable along the center line of each stud with a plastic tie screwed on the stud. Insert a plastic bushing into each tap hole to prevent the cable from rubbing against the sharp edges.
Add wood blocks for doors, windows, and cabinets as needed. If your steel stud wall looks fragile, remember that once the plasterboard or sheath is applied, it will gain full stiffness.
Use 1-1/4 inch (3.1 cm) self-tapping drywall screws to hang the drywall or sheath. They should be spaced every 8 inches (20.3 cm) along the edge (where the two pieces meet on the stud) and 12 inches (30.5 cm) at the center of the other places.
Use fine-threaded screws instead of coarse-threaded screws.
Check your local code. They may require the screws to be placed closer, and after the inspector arrives, you'd better have too much instead of having to add more.
Completed. Your new metal stud will not rot, sag, or catch fire. Learn how to hang drywall and complete the process.